…code, cg, electronics, 3d printing…

I recently realized I’ve had my Makerbot Replicator 1 for nearly three years now, and never once put a new extruder nozzle on it.  Oh, I’ve removed and cleaned\unjammed the current one many times, and over the years the filament has been extruding slightly… crooked as it comes out of the nozzle.

Turning to the Makerbot Users Google Group, I asked what people used as a replacement source.  AVN Swiss commented they sell them on ebay, and I’m a big fan of buying American, so I thought I’d give them a shot.  Shipment showed up promptly.

Full disclosure:  They did ship me some extra nozzles.

They look great, especially compared next to the old crusty guy:

Easily installed into the heater-block:

Extrusion is nice and straight.  It’s bending to the right simply because it’s pooling on the build platform.

First layer of 20mm calibration cube is flat and even:

Final result is smoother than this shiny black PLA makes it look.  Stopped the print to show off the layers.

Overall I definitely recommend them as a buy: Worked as expected, promptly shipped, and made in America.  What more can you ask of an extruder nozzle?

I purchased my Makerbot Replicator (1) when they were first released, nearly 3 years ago now.  Other than a few hiccups (HBP cable failing repeatedly, and a dead botstep needing replaced) it’s ran like a champ.  Reading the forums like I do, I’ve seen a number of people talk about their voltage regulators dying (the LM1084), and killing the whole board in the process.  I don’t know when I’m going to upgrade, and I’d like to keep this machine running as long as possible, so an update was in order.

Makerbot users are always a super-helpful bunch, and the folks over at the Makerbot Users Google Group are no exception.  I’d seen a lot of posts on the subject, but none that really broke down specifically what needed to be done, and what parts needed to be sourced.  So I asked, and they answered.  Armed with that knowledge (and this great photoset by JetGuy) I ordered from Digikey a “Recom Power R-78E5.0-0.5” voltage regulator (the 5v version, not 3.3v) based on user tramalot’s recommendation.  Below are the overall steps I took to install it.  It’s not hard once you grasp what needs done, and my hope is this breakdown can help others in the same situation.

First I sketched out the old and new wiring on paper:  The new regulator has a different pinout:  Everything has been shifted one pin left.

Next I snapped a pic of the Mightyboard pre-removal as a sanity check:

I made sure to ground myself with a wrist-strap just to be safe.

I then labeled all the wires with little stickies, unhooked everything…

(note, this is actually the board on reinstall, but it’s all the same)

…and removed the board.  Here’s a shot of the bare board, and the new voltage regulator:

Like discussed in the forums, I used snips to cut the leads from the old voltage regulator.  I then took my soldering iron (the big, red, hand-held kind), and pressing it against the back of the reg, waited for it to desolder from the Mightyboard.  I lightly twisted the reg back and forth with a pair of pliers at the same time since I had no idea if just the pressure from the iron would move it.  It took a lot longer than I expected, and at one point I thought it wouldn’t work at all.  I’m guessing I had to hold it from 5+ minutes.

From there I desoldered the old remaining leads, and soldered in the new voltage regulator using wires to aid in the pintout offset.    I liked what JetGuy had done in his Flickr post, so I hot-glued it to the power receptacle for extra stability:

(Note the brown/orange cruft is just left-over flux)

Put it all back together, and I was relieved when it turned on, and printed successfully.

I figured while I had it apart I should provide for some extra cooling, so I drilled out a 1.5″ hole right by the Mightyboard fan.  However, after I did this I had more conversation on the above forum linked above, and learned that the Mightyboard really needs no fan cooling at all.  But… having it there should’t hurt.

Hope this gives my rep1 many more years of good printing

My thanks again goes out to the Makerbot Users Google Group users JetGuy, tramalot, and Joseph Chiu for their helpful advice!

A number of months ago I picked up some Fenner Drives NinjaFlex (via ToyBuilder Labs):  I was really excited to give it a shot, but was unable to get it to load into my Makerbot Replicator (1) :  I’d done the drive-block upgrade long time back that should enable me to successfully extrude it.  After disassembling the extruder I’d watch as the filament would enter the thermal tube, then after some time bulge out the (really, really small) gap between the thermal tube and drive block.  I figured the extruder wasn’t getting hot enough, but the onboard firmware didn’t let me adjust the filament load temp, only the pre-heat temp:  I could pre-heat plenty hot, but it would cool back down (to an unknown temp) before doing the filament load.  Frustrating, and I had to abandon it.

Back in December I upgraded my firmware to Sailfish.  And today it dawned on me that Sailfish lets you adjust the pre-heat temperature.  Armed with this knowledge, I cranked it up to 240c, and it loaded without a hitch.  The resultant is this magnificently squishy 2x2x1 cm half-cube:

It was sliced in Simplify3D and printed with these settings:

• Extruded at 240 deg onto an unheated build platform covered in blue painters tape.
• 2 shells, 4 floor, 4 roof, 20% infill, 200 micron layer height.
• 30mm/sec extrusion (per all the online specs I’ve read), 120mm/sec travel.