Raw Oahu
I recently had some orders for my 2-color “Print Oahu” 3d print. Here’s the unfinished results, ready for the customer:
If you’d like one for yourself, let me know!
Posts Tagged ‘ 3d printing ’
I recently had some orders for my 2-color “Print Oahu” 3d print. Here’s the unfinished results, ready for the customer:
If you’d like one for yourself, let me know!
For Christmas I received some Carbon Fiber PLA from Proto-Pasta. I’ve been trying to figure out what to print with it, so I settled on the Strati, the ‘3d printed car’ from Local Motors: They were cool enough to upload the stl’s for it to Thingiverse.
Sliced with Simplify 3D. I had a heck of a time getting it to print however: To get success, I had to increase my layer thickness to 300 micron (from 200) printing at 220 deg @ 90mm\sec. I reached out to their support, and they were prompt to reply with suggestions. I look forward to printing more with it, the finish quality is really cool, almost like 3d-printed coal.
I recently realized I’ve had my Makerbot Replicator 1 for nearly three years now, and never once put a new extruder nozzle on it. Oh, I’ve removed and cleaned\unjammed the current one many times, and over the years the filament has been extruding slightly… crooked as it comes out of the nozzle.
Turning to the Makerbot Users Google Group, I asked what people used as a replacement source. AVN Swiss commented they sell them on ebay, and I’m a big fan of buying American, so I thought I’d give them a shot. Shipment showed up promptly.
Full disclosure: They did ship me some extra nozzles.
They look great, especially compared next to the old crusty guy:
Easily installed into the heater-block:
Extrusion is nice and straight. It’s bending to the right simply because it’s pooling on the build platform.
First layer of 20mm calibration cube is flat and even:
Final result is smoother than this shiny black PLA makes it look. Stopped the print to show off the layers.
Overall I definitely recommend them as a buy: Worked as expected, promptly shipped, and made in America. What more can you ask of an extruder nozzle?
I’d done a few experiments in the past with the Kinect / Skanect software (here, here). The biggest issue (other than my underpowered Macbook Air) was that you’re tied via the USB cables to both the computer, and the electrical socket in the wall: Hard to walk around things to scan them.
After looking at the wall-wart for the Kinect, I saw that it works off 12v DC: Based on that, I picked up a small 12v Tysonic battery from Jameco, cut off the wall-wart, and soldered in some alligator clips to the power-cord. Now the Kinect clips directly to the battery (which fits in my pocket), allowing me to hold the Kinect in one hand (based on this sweet 3d-printed grip), my laptop in the other, for completely untethered scanning.
So while it is still way more clunky than an iSense/iPad combo, that battery only cost me $15, and I got the Kinect used for $50: A slightly lower price-point than a iSense/iPad purchase 😉
My son and I recently tackled the “Adafruit Trinket NeoPixel LED Longboard” project: Seemed like it would be a good cross between 3d-printing, electronics, and skateboards. After running through it though, I found a number of problems with the instructions which I submitted here (if you’re going to do this project, be sure to read them). Unfortunately at the time of this authoring they haven’t updated their project page to address the problems.
In a nutshell, this is what you need to look out for:
Overall it was a fun project, just seriously hindered by the confusing instructions, based on other issues I list in the above link.
Here’s the end result before the rings fell apart (and I removed them). Note the metal bracket over the electronics enclosure and front of the skateboard: One jumped curb and you’ll have some smashed equipment without it.